The four main metals
For fine jewellery, four metals dominate: platinum and three colours of 18-karat gold.
Platinum
Platinum is the rarest of the four and the most prestigious. It is naturally white, extremely durable, and hypoallergenic. It is also the heaviest metal — a platinum ring has a substantial feel.
Platinum develops a patina over time — a soft, satin finish from microscopic surface scratches. Many buyers prefer this matured look. It can be polished back to a high shine at any time.
Platinum is the most expensive of the four metals, typically 30–50% more than 18K gold for the same setting.
18K White Gold
18K white gold is yellow gold alloyed with white metals (palladium or nickel) and rhodium-plated to give it a bright white finish. It looks similar to platinum at a lower price point.
The rhodium plating wears over time, revealing a slightly warmer underlying colour. Annual replating maintains the bright white look — a small ongoing maintenance cost.
18K Yellow Gold
The classic. Pure gold (24K) is too soft for fine jewellery, so it's alloyed with copper and silver to create 18K (75% gold). The warm yellow tone is timeless and complements warmer skin tones beautifully.
Yellow gold develops a soft natural patina but does not require replating. It is the lowest-maintenance of the four metals.
18K Rose Gold
Rose gold gets its blush colour from copper alloying. It has surged in popularity over the past decade for its romantic, slightly vintage feel. Like yellow gold, it does not need replating.
Rose gold is slightly stronger than yellow gold due to the higher copper content, but otherwise behaves similarly.
Choosing for your skin tone
A simple guide:
- Cool skin tones (pink or blue undertones) — platinum, white gold
- Warm skin tones (yellow or peach undertones) — yellow gold, rose gold
- Neutral tones — any metal works
That said, follow your eye, not the rule. Try metals against your skin in a mirror and notice which makes you light up.
Considering the diamond
Lower-colour diamonds (J, K) often look brighter against yellow gold, where the warm metal masks the warmth in the stone. Higher-colour diamonds (D, E, F) are best showcased against platinum or white gold to preserve their pure brilliance.