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Diamond Basics

Diamond Shapes Guide

SAAT Gemology Team·5 min read

Why shape matters

A diamond's shape is the most personal of all the choices you'll make. It determines the entire look of the ring — classic versus modern, soft versus angular, traditional versus distinctive. Unlike the 4Cs, there is no "better" shape — only what speaks to you.

Round Brilliant

The round brilliant is the most popular cut for a reason — it is engineered for maximum brilliance. 57 + 1 precisely positioned facets capture and reflect light better than any other shape. Round diamonds also retain the most value over time and are the safest choice for a classic look.

Princess

Square with sharp corners, the princess cut is the modern classic. It offers exceptional brilliance with a contemporary geometric look, often at a slightly lower price per carat than round.

Oval

The oval is having a moment — and for good reason. It looks larger than its carat weight suggests, the elongated shape flatters the finger, and it pairs beautifully with halo or solitaire settings. A favourite for engagement rings.

Cushion

A pillow-shaped cut with rounded corners, the cushion has vintage charm with modern brilliance. The 'crushed ice' faceting gives a unique scintillating effect that's distinct from round brilliance.

Emerald

Rectangular with stepped facets, the emerald cut prioritises clarity over fire. The result is a sleek, sophisticated look — more like a window into the stone than a fireworks display. Choose VS2 or higher clarity to keep inclusions invisible.

Pear

Half-round, half-marquise — the pear is romantic and distinctive. The pointed end should face the wearer's hand for the most flattering look. Pear diamonds elongate the finger.

Radiant

Square or rectangular with cropped corners and brilliant faceting, radiant cuts combine the brilliance of round with the elegance of emerald. A great alternative if you want a brilliant cut in a non-round shape.

Marquise

A long, narrow cut with pointed ends, the marquise maximises perceived size — a 1-carat marquise looks visually larger than a 1-carat round. Bold and distinctive.

Asscher

Octagonal with stepped facets, the Asscher is the emerald cut's geometric cousin. Strikingly Art Deco in feel.

Heart

Romantic and unmistakable, the heart shape works best at 1 carat or above where the symmetry and silhouette are most apparent.

Choosing yours

Spend time with each shape. Try them on. Notice which one makes you smile. The right shape is the one that, every time you look at it, you love.